Machine and method for folding and fixing fabric blanks



API 15, 1941- A. G. GILBERT I 2.238.048

MACHINE AND METHOD FOR FOLDING AND FIXING FABRIC BLANKS Filed July 7.193s @ALA/, Tl li.

. 34 l 1 -5 Z7 33 T :1,

ANVENTOR: @FP50 G, @a 55,9;

K BY Xml Patented Apr. 15, 1941 MACHINE AND METHOD FOR FOLDING ANDFIXING FABRIC BLANKS Alfred G. Gilbert, South Acton, Mass., assignor toReece Folding Machine Company, Cambridge, Mass., acorporation of MaineApplication July 7, 1938, Serial No. 217,860

11 Claims.

`This invention relates to machines and methods for folding andiixingfab-ric blanks, having reference to the infolding or refolding ofvarious fabric parts or articles, composed of wool, cotton, silk orother cloth or fabric. More especially the disclosed invention relatesto the fol-ding of parts of. garments in the process of manufacture,such as portions of suits, pockets, welts, collars, bands, and anyothers that require to be definitely folded and creased, for examplepreparatory to being stitched to other parts of the garment.

Fabric folding and creasing machines are usually of automatic character,frequently comprising a bed which carries a top plate or pad for`supporting the blanks, and usually a templet or die constituting meansfor defining the edge or edges to be folded, along with folders orfolding plates which are moved over the bed plate to fold .the goods,and which frequently then take partv in the squeezing of the folds byreason of means for pressing downwardly the folders to squeeze thematerial, while the thin templet still occupies the folds, or after litsextraction Examples of such machines are the patents of Dixon No..956,950 of May 3, 1910, and No. 1,979,872 of November 6,Y 1934, and thepatent of Gilbert No.2,0'59,335 of November 3, 1936.

:Such folding machines however have not been Well adapted to do certainclasses of Work, for which the present` invention is especiallydesigned. For example in the' folding of welts for vests the prevailingmode is manual. The operator has first .to soap the ends or edges ofeach welt, fold them by hand, and press them with a hot flatiron. Thesoap acts as an adhesive to make the infoldedl edges stick down,whichwis essential. This method is relatively costly in labor,` andisinefcient, as well as being inaccurate, resulting in lack ofuniformity in size or length of product, which causes difficulties forthe stitching` operator who has later to sew the welt to the lining orother parts of the vest. But Without soap or adhesive another difcultyconfronts the stitcher, the tendency to creep, with a gathering motionof the fold upon the body that occurs during stitching of suitings and`Woolen goods, `this defect sometimes showing as a wrinkle on thefinished garment.

TheA general object of the present invention is to improve the foldingand fixing of various,

fabric blanks, particularlyby affording greater accuracy and eiiiciency,and, as compared with hand. methods, affording increased capacity andproduction and reduced costs. A further object is to adapt fabricfolding lmachines to' the special class of work mentioned, and todispense with the manual Soaping operation and avoid the other drawbacksmentioned. These objects are herein attained by designing the templetand folding members to the work lin hand, and combining with theaforesaid folding and pressing means a means for moistening the goods ina practical and effective way, during direct pressing, all underautomatic operation `or control. Other and further objects andadvantages will be explained in the hereinafter followingdescription ofan illustrative embodiment of the invention or will be understood bythose conversant With the subject.

In the accompanying drawing IFig. 1 is a more or less diagrammatice1evation and vertical section View of the relevant parts of a foldingmachine embodying the present invention.4

Fig. 2, in the same view as Fig. 1, shows a portion thereof, with amodified or adjustable form of cam.

Fig. 3 is a partial elevation view looking at the right hand side ofFig. 1 or Fig. 2 showing certain details, with the adjustable forni ofcam.

Fig. 4 is a view corresponding with a part of Fig. 1,' but showing themoist squeezing of the infolds after the templet has been slid bodilyout.

Fig. 5 is a similar View of a Ymodification Wherein the templet is ofthe collapsible form and is shown as having contracted out of the folds.

Fig. 6 is a face View of an illustrative or conventional form of blankas folded and fixed according to this invention.

The apparatus will first be described, and the method indicated andsubsequently set forth.

The drawing being diagrammatic many general parts are omitted and themachine frame is not shown except to the extent that the parts 5 and 25to -be described are stationary and constitute substantial parts of theframe. The machine bed 5 is usually a fixed part and may be hollow,containing a steam chamber 6, such as is long well known and shown forexample in said Patent No. 956,950, for maintaining hot the bed and theblank supporting plate above thereby toassist the creasing of the goods.A steam inlet or supply 1 is indicated, bringing the hot Vapor to thesteam chest.

As an illustrative example a fabric blank is indicated, tobe folded inat its opposite edges and perhaps other edges. This blank is shownresting upon a hot plate or pad 9 which is at the sition. Fig. shows thecollapsible kind of tem- Y plet, with opposite defining plates II]a onstems Il, caused to approach each other to leave the folds unoccupiedbetween the squeezing members.

Cooperating with the blank support 9 and the defining templet I0 areshown infolders I2. These for example may normally rest at a levelsomewhat below the top of the supporting -plate 9 as shown in dottedlines, Each folder is kept constantly hot by its proximity to the heatedsup-port and by the release of steam as to be described. Automaticfolding mechanism, not shown, but of a general character indicated insaid prior patents, may operate first to lift the folders to clear thesupport and templet and then to move them inwardly to the full linepositions shown, thus forming the folds. These two motions are indicatedby arrows a and b, and a third arrow c indicates the later lowering ofthe folders to squeeze and fix the folded -blanks between the foldersand the supporting plate. Such folder movements are indicated in saidPatents Nos.

1,979,872 and 2,059,335.

To improve the folding and fixing operations it is desirable to treatthe fabric adjacent to the place or places of folding so that the foldscan be firmly fixed and anchored down and will hold this condition for asubstantial period. Soaping the fabric is undesirable or impractcable,and the preparation of the fabric is hereby accomplished by theapplication of hot steam to moisten the proper parts of the articlewhileit rests on the folding support. y

'Ihe purpose of the steam treatment herein is to soften the `fibers ofthe fabric so that they may stick together and the folded and pressedmaterial will retain its condition until the later stitching is`attended to. Preferably the steam is caused to permeate the fabric oris internally sprayed while the fabric is conned between the supportbelow and the folders or corresponding hot part above the goods. It isnot necessary to moisten the entire blank so long as the por- 'tions atand near the folds are treated so that a substantial width of -blankbody and fold are softened while in mutual face contact.

By the present invention the steam is applied from beneath, that is,through the support and into the thin chamber or flat space between eachfolder and the support. The folder above acts as a wall or hot baffleholding the steam confined-beneath, so that it can only seep or flowlaterally, impeded by the fabric itself. The infolded fabric margin andthe fabric body beneath in mutual contact are thus thoroughly andintimately moistened, so that the fixing pressure is very effective inrendering permanent the fold. The fibers take a set causing the twoportions to adhere and hold their position as well for usual purposes asif stuck by an adhesive or soap. Permanent fixation is unnecessary solong as the infold adheres iiatly to the body for `a few hours.

The illustrated embodiment `of these principles is described as follows.The blank support 9 is small steam jet holes appropriately distributedand directed upwardly to deliver directly into the fabric overlying theplate. If desired these perforations may be restricted to the part 0fthe plate which is adjacent to the folds to be formed and fixed. Tosupply :the hot moisture or steam to the perforations I3 the plate isshown formed with interior passages I4. By this arrangement thesupplying of steam to the passages I4 at the proper times causes thedesired moistening of the fabric in assistance to the fixing andanchoring of the folds.

The supplying of steam to the interior passages I4 may be in differentways. There is shown a steam duct I5 formed in .the top wall of the bed5, this duct leading upwardly through central or other ports in the bedtop wall and registering ports in the plate 9. In alinement with the bedwall duct I5 is an exterior duct I6, formed for example in a separatecasting I6a attached to the side of the machine bed. As a means ofsupplying steam to the ducts I6 and I5 there is shown a steam passageI'I leading from the chamber 6 to the duct I6; but the supply might beotherwise.

It is desirable that fthe iiow of steam to the perfonations I3 be undertimed control and to secure this object a valve I8 is shown controlling.the steam flow into and through the ducts I6 and I5. The valve I8 isshown in the form of a plunger or rod slidable in the duct I6 to andfrom a point beyond the junction of the passage Il therewith. As shownthe Valve I8 is closed, but adapted to be opened by lowering it as willbe described.

Various kinds of steam valve may be provided for the purpose but theplunger valve I8 shown is convenient. Its outside extension or rod isprovided with a collar I9 from which extends upwardly a tension spring20 adapted normally to lift and close the valve. At another or lowerpoint the plunger or rod I8 carries a head 2I which may be madeadjustable in its position on the rod to vary 4the action of the valve.The valve is openedby depressing the head 2I and thus lowering theplunger i8 and this Iis shown as effected by means of a valve lever orcam lever 22, the forked end of which straddles the plunger above thehead 2|, so that by swinging down the lever the valve is opened. A stop2|a may be arranged to limit the upward valve movement, for example, bystopping the rise of the lever 22.

The valve lever 22 is shown fulcrumed on a preferably fixed stud 23. Thestud 23 is mounted at the lower end of a fixed or bracket member 24 theupper end of which is attached to a fixed frame rod 25. To anchor thelower end of the bracket 24 it has an extension 26 which carries a screw26a attaching it to a collar 21 mounted on a suitable part as anoperating shaft 28. lThe collar 21 is loose on the shaft and confined bya fast collar 21a at one side and a cam hub 30 at the other side, asFig. 3 shows.

The valve lever 22 is thus mounted on the fixed-position stud 23 and maybe lowered and allowed to rise under timed control, preferably by arotary cam for example as follows. Upon an operating shaft 28, which maybe one of lthe main shafts, making one turn per cycle, is the sub 30 ofa valve cam 3I. This cam is generally concentric but at one part of itsperiphery is formed with a rise 32 followed by a dwell 33 and then adrop 34 back to the original level as on Fig. 1 shown. On the cam lever22 is a follower or roll 35 adapted to be engaged by the cam parts shownas provided with perforations I3, being 32, 33 and 34, serving .todepress the follower and the lever, thereby to lower the plunger I8 andhold open the valve for a period of time determined by the length of thecam dwell 3L The cam 3| is so designed as to open the steam valve justbefore or 4as the folders move in to form the folds and to close it asor preferably just before the squeezing pressure ceases. The durationmay be varied as desired and may be altered by changing the cam. Therate of steam flow, determined by the extent of opening of the valve,may be varied by adjusting the valve rod head 2l up or down. If desir-edthe valve may be widely opened in each operation and without regulationof the degree to which vthe plunger It uncovers the port or exit ofpassages Il into IB, the fabric itself restraining undue steam flow,

In Figs. 2 and 3 an adjustable cam 31 is shown, attached movably to thehub 30 on shaft 28, and having a rise 33, dwell 39 and drop 40, to open,hold open and close the valve, but these may merge into a continuouscurve or arc. For adjusting the valve, it has slots 4| which areparallel and are engaged b-y machine screws or bolts 42 threaded intothe hub 30. By moving the cam further from the center the valve may beopened further and longer and Vice Versa.

The illustrative embodiments afford the objects and advantages sought.The manufacturingfcost of Soaping, hand-turning and hand pressing may besubstantially halved by the automatic folding, steaming and `fixing ofthis invention. Absolute uniformity of folding and pressing is attained,resulting in economies in the later operations. Various changes ofstructure `and operation may be made within the principles of theinvention.

As a modification, the steam connections may be from the bed chest 5directly upwardly through its top wall and thence to the perforations,e. g. through a slide valve by which flow can be cut off normally, thetop wall and pad plate 9 for ex ample having registering perforationsclosable by a short sliding shift of the plate.

The above described improvement is adaptable to so-called multiplefolding, for example the simultaneous folding and fixing of three ormore blanks of woolen cloth to form welts for vests, a plan shown incopending application No. 294,636, led September 13, 1939. As applied tothe present improvement the several welt blanks are laid on the bed orpad, the templet is positioned thereon, the folding performed, thetemplet eX- tracted, and while the blanks are briefly steamed throughbody and fold a fixing pressure is maintained; after which the blanksare removed, forming the three or four welts needed for the making of a.single vest. In this manner of manufacture the present invention,involving moist `pressing of the blanks, is of particular advantage,since it permits the folds of a blank suiting material to be caused toremain fixed or adhere to the body of the blank, without appliedadhesive, preventing reopening before the subsequent stitching, andduring stitchingpreventing creeping, gathering and wrinkling of thegoods.

The method involved comprises, after infolding, subjecting the blank 8at each infold to high squeezing pressure while confined in intimateface Contact` against the body between the pressure members 9 and I2maintained at high tempera ture, and` forcing or admitting steam ormoisture between the pressure members to permeate and meisten both theinfold and body where they mutually contact at their margins inwards ofthe boundary edge of the infolded blank; therebyto cause fiberengagement and consequent direct adherence between the fabric infold andbody over a substantial width of infold, wherebythe fold isilxed withoutthe need of applied adhesive. In the preferred method the applicationofsteam is discontinued slightly before the release of the pressure, sothat the mutually contacting infold and body, while still under hotconfine* ment, are permitted to dry at least sufficiently to ensurecontinued fiber interengagement and direct adherence between fold andbody after removal of the formed and fixed blank. The apparatusI inbroad aspect comprises the machine elements and their operating meanspermitting or bringing about the method steps so outlined.

What is claimed is:

1. The method of forming and xing infolds on fabric blanks whichcomprises, after the infolding of each blank, subjecting the blank ateach infold to high squeezing pressure while the blank infold isconfined in intimate face contact against the blank body betweenpressure members maintained at high temperature, and forcing andadmitting moisture or steam between the pressure members to permeate andmoisten both the infold and the body where they mutually contact inwardsof the boundary edge of the infolded blank, thereby to cause fiberengagement and consequent direct adherence between the fabric infold andbody over a substantial width of infold, whereby the fold is fixedwithout theneed of applied adhesive.

2. The method as in claim 1 and wherein the moisture is applied byforcing steam under pressure through perforations leading to the fabric,and wherein, during the time of hot connement of the blank, the steam isfirst admitted and then cut off to permit drying before release and re'-moval of the blank.

3. The method as in claim 1, and wherein the method is performed in anapparatus comprising `a blank dening member cooperating with thepressure members, one of the latter being a folder, and the methodcomprises the extracting of the deiiner from the blank fold to leave thefold unoccupied during the squeezing pressure between the pressuremembers.

4. The method of forming and fixing infolds on fabric blanks whichcomprises, after the infolding of each blank, subjecting the blank ateach infold to high squeezing pressure while the blank infold isconi-ined in intimate face contact against the blank body betweenpressure members maintained at high temperature, applying moisture topermeate the blank at its marginal portion whereby both the infold andthe body are caused to lie in moistened condition inwards of theboundary edge of the infolded blank over a substantial width of infold,and discontinuing the application of moisture in advance of the releaseof the pressure, whereby the mutually said bed member and folder` memberhaving means to heat them and being adapted to be forced relativelytogether to apply hot squeezing pressure upon the body and folds of theblank confined in mutual face contact between the members after theremoval of the templet, one of said members being provided with steamperforations located to deliver steam toward the other of said members-directly into the fabric of the blank enclosed between them inwards ofthe f folded edge thereof to effect the internal moistening both of thefabric body and the infold adjacent to the folded edge thereof, andvalved means adapted to deliver steam to said perforations to be appliedinternally to each folded blank to moisten its mutually contacting bodyand fold while being confined and squeezed between said hot members, butto cut off the delivery steam in advance of the release of the hotconfinement, whereby the folds remain fixed after removal from themachine.

6. In a machine for folding and fixing fabric blanks or like articles,in combination, a bed member for supporting the blanks to be folded, atemplet to define the edges to be folded, and folding means comprising afolder member movable above the bed for folding each blank definedthereon, said templet being removable from the blank infolds whileconfined between bed and folder, said bed member and folder memberhaving means to heat them and being adapted to be forced relativelytogether to apply hot squeezing pressure upon the body and folds of theblank enclosed in mutual face contact between them after the removal ofthe templet, one of said` and perforations to be applied internally toeach l folded blank to moisten its contacting body and fold while beingsqueezed between said members, thereby to cause the fold to hold itsposition close to the blank body, and remain fixed after removal fromthe machine, without application of v adhesive.

7. A fabric blank infolding machine of the kind having a support and aninfolder movable thereover, with means to heat them, a fold definingmember adapted to be extracted from the fold to leave the fold betweenthe support and infolder,

and means to effect squeezing of each folded blank while the blank bodyand infold are in mutual fact contact between the hot support andinfolder; and characterized by the provision of means to admit steamdirectly into the fabric between the support and the infolder thereby topermeate and moisten both the blank body and infold over a substantialwidth of the infold, while confined in face contact under the hotpressure, combined with timed control means adapted rst to start theadmission of steam, thereby to soften the fibers of the mutuallycontacting body and infold and cause the fibers under the hot pressureto interengage, and then to cut off the steam admission before therelease of the pressure, thereby to provide a period for the fabric todry under the heat and so cause the body and infold to adhere by fiberengagement, without application of adhesive, and to 75.

continue in such adherence after removal from between the pressuremembers.

8. In a machine for folding and fixing fabric blanks or like articles,in combination, a bed member for supporting the blanks to be folded, atemplet to denne the edges to be folded, and folding means comprising afolder member movable above the bed for folding each blank definedthereon, said templet being extractible out of the blank infolds whileleaving them confined between the bed and folder members, said bedmember and folder member having means to heat them and being adapted tobe forced relatively together to apply hot squeezing pressure upon thebody and infolds of the blank enclosed in mutual face contact betweensaid members after the removal of the templet, said bed member beingprovided with a steam passage and formed with steam perforations locatedand directed to deliver steam toward the folder member acting as abaille directly into the fabric of the blank enclosed between them andinwards of the folded edge thereof to effect the internal moistening ofthe fabric body and infold adjacent to the folded edge thereof, and avalve adapted to deliver steam to said passage and perforations to beapplied internally to each folded blank to render moist its contactingbody and fold while being squeezed between said hot members, and adaptedto be shut off before release of squeezing pressure, thereby to causethe infold to adhere to the blank body, by liber engagement, withoutapplication of adhesive.

9. A machine as in claim 8 and wherein is automatic means moving in timewith the defining, folding and pressing operations of the machine andhaving connections for opening and closing said valve coordinated toafford a short duration of valve opening and steam delivery during thetime the folded blank lies under pressure between the hot bed and foldermembers; said automatic means being arranged to close the valve and cutoff the steam slightly before the squeezing pressure is released.

10. In a machine for folding and fixing fabric blanks or like articles,in combination, a bed having a top surface or plate constituting asupporting member for the blanks to be folded and fixed, a templetadapted to define the folds and to withdraw therefrom while on saidsupport member, folding means comprising one or more folder membersmovable above the blank support member or bed for folding each blankthereon, said support member and folder member being adapted to beforced relatively together with a squeezing action to apply fixingpressure upon the folds of the blank enclosed in mutual contact betweenthem, one of said members being provided with a steam passage and formedwith steam perforations directed to deliver steam toward the other ofsaid members and therefore directly into the fabric of the blankenclosed between them to effect the internal moistening of the fabricbody and fold -adjacent to the position of each folded edge thereof andfor a substantial width of the fold, an exterior steam supply ductarranged to deliver to said passage and perforations, and anormally-closed valve arranged to control steam flow in said duct andadapted to be opened at such time as to release steam to be appliedinternally to the folded blank while enclosed between said members,thereby to cause the fold to adhere to the blank body; together withautomatic means moving in time with the machine including connectionsfor opening and closing said valve and coordinated to afford a shortduration of valve opening and steam release during the time the foldedblank liesI between the support and folder members; said automatic meansincluding a rotary cam with follower and connections to the valve andmeans to adjust the vtiming thereof.

11. In a machine for folding and fixing fabric blanks or like articles,in combination, a bed having a top surface or plate constituting asupporting member for the blanks to be folded and fixed, a templetadapted to define the folds and to withdraw therefrom while on saidsupport member, folding means comprising one or more folder membersmovable above the blank support member or bed for folding each blankthereon, said support member and folder member being adapted to beforced relatively together with a squeezing action to apply fixingpressure upon the folds of the blank enclosed in mutual contact betweenthem, one of said members being provided with a steam passage and formedwith steam perforations directed to deliver steam toward the other ofsaid members and therefore directly into the fabric of the blankenclosed between them to effect the internal moistening of the fabricbody and fold adjacent to the position of each folded edge thereof andfor a substantial Width of the fold, an exterior steam supply ductarranged to deliver to said passage and perforations, and anormally-closed Valve arranged to control steam flow in said duct andadapted to be opened at such time as to release steam to be appliedinternally to the folded blank while enclosed between said members,thereby to cause the fold to adhere to the blank body; together withautomatic or cam means moving in time with the machine havingvconnections for opening and closing said valve and coordinated toafford a short duration of Valve opening and steam release during thetime the folded blank lies under pressure between the support and foldermembers; said automatic means including means to adjust the timing andduration of each operation of the valve and its degree of opening.

ALFRED G. GILBERT.

